<telerik:RadAjaxManager ID="RadAjaxManager1" runat="server">
<AjaxSettings>
<telerik:AjaxSetting AjaxControlID="radGrid1">
<UpdatedControls>
<telerik:AjaxUpdatedControl ControlID="radGrid1" />
UpdatedControls>
telerik:AjaxSetting>
AjaxSettings>
telerik:RadAjaxManager>
<form id="form1" runat="server">
<telerik:RadScriptManager ID="RadScriptManager1" runat="server">
telerik:RadScriptManager>
<telerik:RadAjaxManager ID="RadAjaxManager1" runat="server">
<AjaxSettings>
<telerik:AjaxSetting AjaxControlID="radGrid1">
<UpdatedControls>
<telerik:AjaxUpdatedControl ControlID="radGrid1" />
UpdatedControls>
telerik:AjaxSetting>
AjaxSettings>
telerik:RadAjaxManager>
<div>
<telerik:RadGrid ID="radGrid1" runat="server" AutoGenerateColumns="false" Skin="Web20"
AllowPaging="true" AllowSorting="true">
<MasterTableView AllowPaging="true" AllowSorting="true" ShowHeadersWhenNoRecords="true">
<Columns>
<telerik:GridTemplateColumn UniqueName="ckboxSelect" >
<HeaderTemplate>
<asp:CheckBox ID="ckBoxSelect" runat="server" Visible="true" onclick="checkAll(this);" />
HeaderTemplate>
<ItemTemplate>
<asp:CheckBox ID="ckBoxItemSelect" runat="server" />
<asp:Label ID="lblPartky" runat="server" Visible="false" Text='<%#Eval("partky") %>'>asp:Label>
ItemTemplate>
telerik:GridTemplateColumn>
<telerik:GridBoundColumn DataField="col2">
telerik:GridBoundColumn>
<telerik:GridBoundColumn DataField="col3">
telerik:GridBoundColumn>
<telerik:GridBoundColumn DataField="col4">
telerik:GridBoundColumn>
Columns>
MasterTableView>
telerik:RadGrid>
<telerik:RadCodeBlock ID="radCodeBlock1" runat="server">
<script type="text/javascript" language="javascript">
function checkAll(obj) {
}
script>
telerik:RadCodeBlock>
div>
form>
using System;
using System.Collections.Generic;
using System.Linq;
using System.Web;
using System.Web.UI;
using System.Web.UI.WebControls;
using Telerik.Web.UI;
using System.Data;
namespace RadGridClientSelectColumns
{
public partial class _Default : System.Web.UI.Page
{
protected void Page_Load(object sender, EventArgs e)
{
if (!Page.IsPostBack)
{
DataTable dtSourceTable = new DataTable();
dtSourceTable.Columns.Add("partky");
dtSourceTable.Columns.Add("col2");
dtSourceTable.Columns.Add("col3");
dtSourceTable.Columns.Add("col4");
dtSourceTable.AcceptChanges();
for (int i = 0; i < 100; i++)
{
DataRow dtNewrow = dtSourceTable.NewRow();
dtNewrow["partky"] = i.ToString();
dtNewrow["col2"] = i.ToString() + dtSourceTable.Columns.IndexOf("col2").ToString();
dtNewrow["col3"] = i.ToString() + dtSourceTable.Columns.IndexOf("col3").ToString();
dtNewrow["col4"] = i.ToString() + dtSourceTable.Columns.IndexOf("col4").ToString();
dtSourceTable.Rows.Add(dtNewrow);
dtSourceTable.AcceptChanges();
}
Session["Source"] = dtSourceTable;
radGrid1.DataSource = dtSourceTable;
radGrid1.DataBind();
}
else
{
DataTable dtNewsource = (DataTable)Session["Source"];
radGrid1.DataSource = dtNewsource;
radGrid1.DataBind();
}
}
}
}
There are several obvious reasons to give a hoot about your credit score, and very few reasons you should ignore it. After all, you'll need a good credit score and a solid credit history if you ever plan to purchase a home or take out an auto loan. A bad credit score can even come back to bite you if you want to rent an apartment or apply for certain jobs.
But your score isn't the only detail you need to pay attention to. You also need to keep an eye on your credit report — the document that lists your formal credit history including any accounts you have open, balances due, and payments you've made.
Your report and your score are intricately intertwined. If bad information gets on your credit report due to fraud or misreporting, this can easily cause your credit score to nosedive. Likewise, a clear credit report with nothing but true (and positive) information can help your credit score reach greater heights.
That's why, every single year, you should get a free copy of your credit report from all three credit reporting agencies — Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion. Fortunately, this part is easy to accomplish via AnnualCreditReport.com.
Once you have a copy of your credit report from all three bureaus, you'll want to look over all the details to make sure they're correct. Incorrect information you might notice on your report may include:
Thanks to the Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA), both the credit bureau and whoever is providing them with information are responsible for correcting misinformation on your credit report. This means that, if a specific retailer or bank is reporting an account that isn't yours or an incorrect balance, both the credit bureau and the retailer or bank have to work together to make things right.
If you find an error, here are the steps you should take right away:
The first step you should take is informing the credit reporting agency of their error, keeping in mind that it's possible not all the credit bureaus will have the same information. You should let them know about the mistake in writing, taking special care to list important details about the mistake with proper documentation. The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) even offers a sample letter you can use if you need help.
Note that credit bureaus usually have 30 days to investigate your claim and they are required to get back to you with a response. They are also required to forward the information you sent them to the provider who shared the information with them in the first place.
You'll also want to provide the company reporting the incorrect information with copies of any documentation that prove an error has occurred. Make sure to include all details required to prove your claim along with copies of documentation that backs you up. The FTC offers another sample dispute letter you can use for this instance.
Generally speaking, credit reporting agencies are required to inform you in writing of the results of your case. They are also legally required to give you another free copy of your credit report if your dispute caused a permanent change.
You also have the option to ask the credit bureau to send notices of any corrections to anyone who has requested your credit report within the last six months. You can even have an updated copy sent to anyone who has asked for a modified version of your credit report for reasons regarding employment.
While the steps above may sound tedious, it's crucial to understand the damage incorrect information on your credit report can do. If you have inaccurate late payments on your report, for example, you could see your credit score plummet through no fault of your own. And if there are accounts on your credit report that aren't even yours, that could signify a much larger problem, such as outright identity theft.
Fortunately, the small amount of time required to dispute an item on your credit report really can pay off in a big way. After all, any negative information you manage to get wiped clean should immediately stop dragging your score down.
However, you should also note that you'll only be able to get false negative information removed from your credit reports. Any damaging information that's true will have to linger on your report until enough time has passed. Generally speaking, negative information and reporting can remain on your credit report for up to seven years and bankruptcy can stay on your report for 10 years.
Errors happen all the time, and they may never be uncovered if you don't find them yourself. In addition to staying on top of your credit reports, it can help to sign up for a free service that gives you updates on new accounts in your name or fluctuations in your credit score. CreditKarma.com and CreditSesame.com are two that offer a similar free service with these features, so they are both worth checking out.
Some of my most memorable vacations have centered around money — and didn't require spending much of it at all. I had my photo taken next to a $1 million stack of bills at Binion's on a recent trip to Las Vegas. Another memorable experience was visiting the Bureau of Engraving and Printing in Washington, D.C. to see millions of dollars of being printed on the production floor.
If you get excited about money, check out these unique attractions across the U.S.
Get a free souvenir photo of yourself standing next to $1 million in cash at Binion's Gambling Hall and Hotel in Las Vegas. Stop by to have your photo taken and come back about an hour later to pick up your free printed copy. It's pretty incredible to see that much cash up close.
You can take self-guided tours on foot, or there are other tour options available for free or under $40. (See also: 6 Confidence-Inspiring Facts About the Stock Market)
Visit the home of the trading floors of the Chicago Board of Trade and the Chicago Mercantile Exchange to see traders at work in the pits as they buy and sell commodities. The Chicago Board of Trade building was once the tallest building in Chicago. Although it has been eclipsed by other taller buildings, it remains an Art Deco historic landmark with a glass observation deck with views of the skyline. Tours last an hour, and cost $20 per person.
Unfortunately the bullion vault at Fort Knox is closed to visitors, but there is a place you can see tons of gold — literally. The gold vault at the New York Federal Reserve Bank houses approximately 508,000 gold bars, weighing in at 6,350 tons. Tour the gold vault for free and learn about the Federal Reserve System as you tour the Federal Reserve Bank.
Visit the Learning Center and Money Museum at the Federal Reserve Bank of Cleveland for interactive exhibits and activities. Try your hand at bartering, see if you can correctly identify counterfeit bills, and even try making your own currency. Take a look inside the impressive building that houses the Cleveland Fed and learn how central banks operate. Admission and tours are free.
Identity theft wears many different faces. From credit cards to student loans, thieves can open different forms of credit in your name and just like that, destroy your credit history and financial standing.
If this happens to you, getting the situation fixed can be difficult and time-consuming. But you can set things right.
If someone took out a loan in your name, it's important to take action right away to prevent further damage to your credit. Follow these steps to protect yourself and get rid of the fraudulent accounts.
The first thing you should do is file a police report with your local police department. You might be able to do this online. In many cases, you will be required to submit a police report documenting the theft in order for lenders to remove the fraudulent loans from your account. (See also: 9 Signs Your Identity Was Stolen)
If someone took out a loan or opened a credit card in your name, contact the lender or credit card company directly to notify them of the fraudulent account and to have it removed from your credit report. For credit cards and even personal loans, the problem can usually be resolved quickly.
When it comes to student loans, identity theft can have huge consequences for the victim. Failure to pay a student loan can result in wage garnishment, a suspended license, or the government seizing your tax refund — so it's critical that you cut any fraudulent activity off at the pass and get the loans discharged quickly.
In general, you'll need to contact the lender who issued the student loan and provide them with a police report. The lender will also ask you to complete an identity theft report. While your application for discharge is under review, you aren't held responsible for payments.
If you have private student loans, the process is similar. Each lender has their own process for handling student loan identity theft. However, you typically will be asked to submit a police report as proof, and the lender will do an investigation.
If someone took out student loans in your name, contact the school the thief used to take out the loans. Call their financial aid or registrar's office and explain that a student there took out loans under your name. They can flag the account in their system and prevent someone from taking out any more loans with your information. (See also: How to Protect Your Child From Identity Theft)
When you find evidence of fraudulent activity, you need to dispute the errors with each of the three credit reporting agencies: Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion. You should contact each one and submit evidence, such as your police report or a letter from the lender acknowledging the occurrence of identity theft. Once the credit reporting bureau has that information, they can remove the accounts from your credit history.
If your credit score took a hit due to thieves defaulting on your loans, getting them removed can help improve your score. It can take weeks or even months for your score to fully recover, but it will eventually be restored to its previous level. (See also: Don't Panic: Do This If Your Identity Gets Stolen)
As soon as you find out you're the victim of a fraudulent loan, place a fraud alert on your credit report with one of the three credit reporting agencies. You can do so online:
Experian
Equifax
TransUnion
When you place a fraud alert on your account, potential creditors or lenders will receive a notification when they run your credit. The alert prompts them to take additional steps to verify your identity before issuing a loan or form of credit in your name. (See also: How to Get a Free Fraud Alert on Your Credit Report)
In some cases, it might be a good idea to freeze your credit. With a credit freeze, creditors cannot view your credit report or issue you new credit unless you remove the freeze.
Finally, check your credit report regularly to ensure no new accounts are opened in your name. You can request a free report from each of the three credit reporting agencies once a year at AnnualCreditReport.com. You can stagger the reports so you take out one every four months, helping you keep a close eye on account activity throughout the year. (See also: How to Read a Credit Report)
Sharing is caring — at least that's what has been drilled into our minds. And for the most part, it's true.
However, if you're contemplating making the ultimate step in sharing — adding someone to the deed on your home — it's a good idea to consider the consequences. It's important to understand that when you add someone to your deed, you are entitling them to the same "bundle of rights" — control, enjoyment, possession, exclusion and disposition — that you have as a property owner. Before adding a loved one to your deed, it's important that you speak to an estate attorney and your mortgage lender to ensure you understand your rights, and to determine if this is the right move for you.
Here are five things you should consider before adding someone to your deed.
When you add someone to the deed, all or a portion of your ownership is transferred to that person. Once it's done, you can't take it back unless the person you've added provides consent to be removed from the deed. He or she can take out a loan on the property, tear it down, or even sell their share of the property. And in some cases, there's nothing you can do about it.
Even if you transfer only a portion of your interest in the property, that person will have full control of their portion and may be able to force a sale of the property. If you want to refinance or sell your home, you must get permission from the individual you've added. This can lead to time consuming and costly legal battles that can tie up the property for years. Make sure you fully understand the implications and consequences before you sign on the dotted line.
The law doesn't forbid adding people to a deed on a home with an outstanding mortgage. Mortgage lenders are familiar and frequently work with deed changes and transfers. Most lenders incorporate a loan "due-on-sale clause," which gives them the ability to call in the loan if the deed is transferred or if the home is sold. When you "deed" your home to someone, you've effectively transferred part ownership, which could activate the "due-on-sale" clause.
It is imperative that you understand the rules governing your particular situation. And you should obtain permission from your mortgage lender before adding someone to the deed. (See also: Why You Should Call Your Mortgage Lender Every Year)
Let's say you decide to add your brother to the deed. If he fails to pay taxes and incurs a tax lien, has problems with creditors, or goes through a nasty divorce, the IRS, his creditors, or his ex-spouse can lay claim to your home, or at least to his portion. In that situation, the entity owed can place a lien on your property and attempt to force a sale to collect the debt or tie up the property and prevent you from selling.
Adding someone to the deed of your home can also generate income tax liabilities when the residence is sold in the future.
When you add someone to your deed, the IRS sees it as a gift. That person becomes subject to IRS regulations concerning gifts. As of 2018, the IRS allowable gift limit is $15,000 annually, per person. Gifts that exceed this amount are subject to the gift tax.
The important take away here is that you should ensure you consult a tax attorney or Certified Public Accountant (CPA) before you add someone to your deed to ensure that you understand all of the implications and don't run into any surprises down the road. Your good intentions can be costly if not accompanied by due diligence. (See also: 4 Things You Need to Know About Gift Tax)
There are so many hidden risks and pitfalls to adding someone to the deed. Remember, you become a joint owner rather than the exclusive owner. This change can impact your eligibility to sell or refinance. And for older homeowners near retirement age, transferring assets can adversely affect Medicaid eligibility.
Another thing to consider is that adding someone to the deed does not make them responsible for the debt. Unless the original loan agreement is modified, you are still solely responsible for repayment and the other person has ownership rights.
We are in the midst of a major economic shift. While workers in the past could expect to keep a stable job with a traditional employer for decades, workers of today have found they must either cobble together a career from a variety of gigs, or supplement a lackluster salary from a traditional job by doing freelance work in their spare time.
Though you can make a living (and possibly even a good one) in the gig economy, this kind of work does leave gig workers vulnerable in one very important way: retirement planning.
Without the backing of an employer-sponsored retirement account, many gig workers are not saving enough for their golden years. According to a recent report by Betterment, seven out of 10 full-time gig workers say they are unprepared to maintain their current lifestyle during retirement, while three out of 10 say they don't regularly set aside any money for retirement.
So what's a gig worker to do if they don't want to be driving for Uber and taking TaskRabbit jobs into their 70s and 80s? Here are five things you can do to save for retirement as a member of the gig economy. (See also: 15 Lucrative Side Hustles for City Dwellers)
Many people don't have a clear idea of how much money they have. And it's impossible to plan your retirement if you don't know where you are today. So any retirement savings should start with a look at what you already have in the accounts in your name.
Add up how much is in your checking and savings accounts, any neglected retirement accounts you may have picked up from previous traditional jobs, cash on hand if your gig work relies on cash tips, or any other financial accounts. The sum total could add up to more than you realize if you haven't recently taken stock of where you are.
Even if you truly have nothing more than pocket lint and a couple quarters to your name, it's better to know where you are than proceed without a clear picture of your financial reality. (See also: These 13 Numbers Are Crucial to Understanding Your Finances)
If you don't already have a retirement account that you can contribute to, then you need to set one up ASAP. You can't save for retirement if you don't have an account to put money in.
IRAs are specifically created for individual investors and you can easily get started with one online. If you have money from a 401(k) to roll over, you have more options available to you, as some IRAs have a minimum investment amount (typically $1,000). If you have less than that to open your account, you may want to choose a Roth IRA, since those often have no minimums.
The difference between the traditional IRA and the Roth IRA is how taxes are levied. With a traditional IRA, you can fund the account with pre-tax income. In other words, every dollar you put in an IRA is a dollar you do not have to claim as income. However, you will have to pay ordinary income tax on your IRA distributions once you reach retirement. Roth IRAs are funded with money that has already been taxed, so you can take distributions tax-free in retirement.
Many gig workers choose a Roth IRA because their current tax burden is low. If you anticipate earning more over the course of your career, using a Roth IRA for retirement investments can protect you from the taxman in retirement.
Whether you choose a Roth or a traditional IRA, the contribution limit per year, as of 2018, is $5,500 for workers under 50, and $6,500 for anyone who is 50+.
While no investor wants to lose portfolio growth to fees, it's especially important for gig workers to choose asset allocations that will minimize investment fees. That's because gig workers are likely to have less money to invest, so every dollar needs to be working hard for them.
Investing in index funds is one good way to make sure investment fees don't suck the life out of your retirement account. Index funds are mutual funds that are constructed to mimic a specific market index, like the S&P 500. Since there is no portfolio manager who is choosing investments, there is no management fee for index funds. (See also: How to Start Investing With Just $100)
One of the toughest challenges of being a gig worker is the fact that your income is variable — which makes it very difficult to plan on contributing the same amount each month. This is where technology comes in.
To start, set up an automatic transfer of an amount of money you will not miss. Whether you can spare $50 per week or $5 per month, having a small amount of money quietly moving into your IRA gives you a little cushion that you don't have to think about.
From there, consider using a savings app to handle retirement savings for you. For instance, Digit will analyze your checking account's inflow and outflow, and will determine an amount that is safe to save without triggering an overdraft, and automatically move that amount into a savings account. You can then transfer your Digit savings into your retirement account.
An excellent way to make sure you're maxing out your contributions each year is to change your view of "found money." For instance, if you receive a birthday check from your grandmother, only spend half of it and put the rest in your retirement account. Similarly, if you receive a tax refund (which is a little less likely if you're a gig worker paying quarterly estimated taxes), send at least half of the refund toward your retirement.
Any gig workers who often receive cash can also make their own rules about the cash they receive. For instance, you could decide that every $5 bill you get has to go into retirement savings. That will help you change your view of the money and give you a way to boost your retirement savings.
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